For Shops, Knitwear, Knitter, etc.

If you have a yarn store or a shop, if you're a knitter or an embroidery or a pack, if you're a knitter and you have a VAT number, download free color cards and the wholesale price list of our Fall / Winter 2012 -2013, you'll find a lot of interesting news.

Pure cashmere yarn produced by the best Italian specialized spinning at great prices.

Natural yarns dyed with plant pigments, natural 100%, who not have undergone any type of chemical treatment..

Yarn in:

– Baby Yak
– Baby camel
– Baby Alpaca
– Mohair and Superkid Mohair
– Merino
– Silk

and cashmere yarns in pure and mixed recycled environmentally friendly.

Yarn machine, gauges from 3 to 12, and yarn for knitting (crochet, knitting, embroidery, etc..) In all the above items.

Click on this link and fill out the form with your data, you will receive an email with simple instructions to download the color chart and price list:
and select language "English"

and while you're there, take a look at our website.

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From Wikipedia

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing.[1] Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine embroidery.


Main article: Spinning (textiles)
A Spinning Jenny, spinning machine which initiated the Industrial Revolution

Spun yarn is made by twisting or otherwise bonding staple fibers together to make a cohesive thread.Twisting fibers into yarn in the process called spinning can be dated back to the Upper Paleolithic, and yarn spinning was one of the very first processes to be industrialized. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fiber, or be a blend of various types. Combining synthetic fibers (which can have high strength, lustre, and fire retardant qualities) with natural fibers (which have good water absorbency and skin comforting qualities) is very common. The most widely used blends are cotton-polyester and wool-acrylic fiber blends. Blends of different natural fibers are common too, especially with more expensive fibers such as angora and cashmere.

Yarns are made up of a number of plies, each ply being a single spun yarn. These single plies of yarn are twisted together (plied) in the opposite direction to make a thicker yarn. Depending on the direction of this final twist, the yarn will be known as s-twist or z-twist. For a single ply, the direction of the final twist is the same as its original twist.

Filament yarn consists of filament fibers (very long continuous fibers) either twisted together or only grouped together. Thicker monofilaments are typically used for industrial purposes rather than fabric production or decoration. Silk is a natural filament, and synthetic filament yarns are used to produce silk-like effects.

Texturized yarns are made by a process of air texturizing (sometimes referred to as taslanizing), which combines multiple filament yarns into a yarn with some of the characteristics of spun yarns.

Craft yarns
Cat with a ball of mixed-color yarn.
Spool of all purpose sewing thread, closeup shows texture of 2-ply Z-twist mercerized cotton with polyester core.
Yarn drying after being dyed in the early American tradition, at Conner Prairie living history museum.

Yarn quantities are usually measured by weight in ounces or grams. In the United States, Canada and Europe, balls of yarn for handcrafts are sold by weight. Common sizes include 25g, 50g, and 100g skeins. Some companies also primarily measure in ounces with common sizes being three-ounce, four-ounce, six-ounce, and eight-ounce skeins. These measurements are taken at a standard temperature and humidity, because yarn can absorb moisture from the air. The actual length of the yarn contained in a ball or skein can vary due to the inherent heaviness of the fiber and the thickness of the strand; for instance, a 50 g skein of lace weight mohair may contain several hundred meters, while a 50 g skein of bulky wool may contain only 60 meters.

There are several thicknesses of yarn, also referred to as weight. This is not to be confused with the measurement of weight listed above. The Craft Yarn Council of America is making an effort to promote a standardized industry system for measuring this, numbering the weights from 1 (finest) to 6 (heaviest)[4]. Some of the names for the various weights of yarn from finest to thickest are called lace, fingering, sock, sport, double-knit (or DK), worsted, aran, bulky, and super-bulky. This naming convention is more descriptive than precise; fiber artists disagree about where on the continuum each lies, and the precise relationships between the sizes.

A more precise measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps per inch (wpi). The yarn is wrapped snugly around a ruler and the number of wraps that fit in an inch are counted.

Labels on yarn for handcrafts often include information on gauge, known in the UK as tension, which is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are produced per inch or per centimeter on a specified size of knitting needle or crochet hook. The proposed standardization uses a four-by-four inch/ten-by-ten centimeter knitted or crocheted square, with the resultant number of stitches across and rows high made by the suggested tools on the label to determine the gauge.

In Europe textile engineers often use the unit tex, which is the weight in grams of a kilometer of yarn, or decitex, which is a finer measurement corresponding to the weight in grams of 10 kilometers of yarn. Many other units have been used over time by different industries.


Yarn may be used undyed, or may be colored with natural or artificial dyes. Most yarns have a single uniform hue, but there is also a wide selection of variegated yarns:

* heathered or tweed: yarn with flecks of different colored fiber
* ombre: variegated yarn with light and dark shades of a single hue
* multi-colored: variegated yarn with two or more distinct hues (a “parrot colorway” might have green, yellow and red)
* self-striping: yarn dyed with lengths of color that will automatically create stripes in a knitted or crocheted object
* marled: yarn made from strands of different-colored yarn twisted together, sometimes in closely-related hues

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Sciarpa Krtek

Nuova traduzione: sciarpa Krtek

Inviato da Typesetter 18:08 

  • Filato: Laïka di Bouton d’Or, 100 % lana, 4 gomitoli (50 g = 50 m) colore Taupe. Questo filato è made in France, credo sia disponibile in tutto il mondo ma per eventuali sostituzioni la tensione che si ottiene è di 14 m = 10 cm a maglia rasata con i ferri da 6 m.
  • Ferri: 6 mm.
  • Misure: circa 125 × 20 cm.

Testo dello schema nel post esteso
Il pattern originale è stato pubblicato come Ravelry free download

Schema e foto © Darktricot/Orlane, 2008-2009.
È autorizzato solo l’uso personale dello schema. Né questo pattern né i capi ottenuti da esso possono essere rivenduti.
Il testo e le foto sono stati usati e tradotti con l’autorizzazione dell’autrice.

Monta 24 maglie. Lavora come indicato dallo schema. Quando la sciarpa è della lunghezza desdierata, lavora 2 ferri a m leg e intreccia. Facile!!

Cuci un bottone sul lato, a circa 15 cm dal bordo, non ti serviranno occhielli perché il punto le crea di “naturali” ;). Il bloccaggio dipende dalle preferenze personali e dal filato. Non ho bloccato la mia.

Ho lavorato la sciarpa mentre guardavo La petite taupe con mia figlia. Si tratta di un cartone animato ceco il cui protagonista è Krtek, la più graziosa e furba talpa mai vissuta.

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Uncinetto: il tappeto rustico

Questo tappeto, realizzato con il cotone grezzo e con un punto molto semplice, è di grande utilità per la vostra casa.

Cotone povero:

  • g 700 color ruggine
  • g 550 color beige;
  • uncinetto n° 5.


Punti impiegati

  • Punto tappeto.
  • Maglia bassa.
  • Punto gambero.

Col colore beige avviate una catenella di 134 m. e lavorate per 130 righe col p. tappeto, alternando i colori ogni riga.

Rifinite intorno l’intero tappeto con 6 giri a maglia bassa con il cotone color ruggine, lavorando 3 maglie in ogni maglia d’angolo.
Terminate con un giro a punto gambero.

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Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes

Check this post Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes from another knitting blog:

Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes Bow

[A copy of this book was provided by the publisher for review].

Purchase this book from

I have long loved yarn in all its various forms, but a recent step into spinning has got me thinking more deeply about the raw material that turns into that object of desire. To learn to spin is to learn about fiber, and this book is a wonderful reference about that most wonderful fiber: wool.

The first two chapters introduce the main character and describe its transformation in yarn; however, as a new spinner, I’m most excited by Chapter Three. The third chapter provides profiles of the fiber from 37 different sheep breeds along with essential stats like fineness, staple length, and crimp, and color pictures of washed, unspun locks. What a great resource! As someone who has recently been buying fiber more often than yarn, this is information I really appreciate. Adding to overall usefulness quotient, there’s a chapter devoted to wool blends, articles on washing wool and moth control, and really too much more to list.

And, if all that information weren’t enough, there is a chapter of patterns for hats, socks, shawls, and more. There are some good, basic patterns as well as some stand-outs for me, like the Lillia Hyrna Shawl and the Tibetan Clouds Beaded Stole [designed by new Portlandite and Twisted employee, Sivia Harding].

I believe I will refer to this book often as my love of knitting morphs into an obsession with spinning.

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Uncinetto: I punti Tessuto


Ancora punti tessuto ottenuti sempre alternando maglie basse e maglie alte nei più svariati modi.

Numero di m. dispari.
1° r.: a mezza m. a.
2° r. e r. pari: 2 m. cat., * filo sull’une., entrate nel filo dietro della m. di base, filo sull’une, ed estraete 1 m. *. Rip. da* a* nella 2° e nella 3° m., poi filo sull’une, e chiudete il punto, 1 m. cat. Rip. da* a* entrando prima nella m. di base già lav., poi nella 1° e nella 2° m. di base per tutta la r. 3° r. e r. dispari: 1 m. cat., * 2 m. mezze a. lav. nella m. che chiude il fiore *. Rip. da * a * e term. con 1 m. mezza a. sulla 2° delle 2 m. cat. d’avvio.


Numero di m. multiplo di 3 + 1.
1° r. e r. dispari (sul dir. del lav.): a m. a.
2° r. e r. pari: * nella stessa m. di base lav. 1 m. b. e 2 m. a., saltate 2 m. *. Rip. da* a*.


Su una cat. di base lav.:
1° r.; a m. b.
2° r.: volt. con 1 m. cat., * entrate con l’une. nella 1° m. di base, filo sull’une, ed estraete 1 m., entrate nella 2° m. di base ed estraete 1 m-, filo sull’une, chiudete 2 m., filo sull’une, e chiudete il punto tenendo il filo lento *. Rip. da* a*.
3° r.: volt. con 1 m. cat., * 2 m. b. in ogni m., una entrando con l’unc. nel filo dav. di ogni m. di base, una entrando nel filo dietro *. Rip. da* a*. Ripetete sempre la 2° e la 3° r.



1° r e 2° r.; a m. b.
3° r.: * 1 m. b., 1 m. lav. nella r. sottostante *.Rip. da* a*. 4° r.: a m. b.
Ripetete sempre la 3° e la 4° r.


1° r.: a m. b.
2° r.: volt. con 2 m. cai., * 2 m. a. lav. nella stessa m. di base, saltate 1 m. di base *.
Ripetete queste due righe.


1° r. e r. dispari (dir. del lav.): a m. a.
2° r. e r. pari: a m. b. entrando tra una colonnina e l’altra.


1° r.: * 1 m. b., 1 m. cat., saltate 1 m. di base *.
2° r.; 1 m. b., * entrate con l’unc. nell’arco della m. cat., filo sull’une, ed estraete 1 m., entrate con l’unc. nella m. b., filo sull’unc, ed estraete 1 m., filo sull’une, e chiudete il punto; 1 m. b. nella stessa m. b. già lav. *.
3° r.: riprendete dalla 1° r.

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