Sciarpa Krtek

Nuova traduzione: sciarpa Krtek

Inviato da Typesetter 18:08 

  • Filato: Laïka di Bouton d’Or, 100 % lana, 4 gomitoli (50 g = 50 m) colore Taupe. Questo filato è made in France, credo sia disponibile in tutto il mondo ma per eventuali sostituzioni la tensione che si ottiene è di 14 m = 10 cm a maglia rasata con i ferri da 6 m.
  • Ferri: 6 mm.
  • Misure: circa 125 × 20 cm.

Testo dello schema nel post esteso
Il pattern originale è stato pubblicato come Ravelry free download

Schema e foto © Darktricot/Orlane, 2008-2009.
È autorizzato solo l’uso personale dello schema. Né questo pattern né i capi ottenuti da esso possono essere rivenduti.
Il testo e le foto sono stati usati e tradotti con l’autorizzazione dell’autrice.

Monta 24 maglie. Lavora come indicato dallo schema. Quando la sciarpa è della lunghezza desdierata, lavora 2 ferri a m leg e intreccia. Facile!!

Cuci un bottone sul lato, a circa 15 cm dal bordo, non ti serviranno occhielli perché il punto le crea di “naturali” ;). Il bloccaggio dipende dalle preferenze personali e dal filato. Non ho bloccato la mia.

Ho lavorato la sciarpa mentre guardavo La petite taupe con mia figlia. Si tratta di un cartone animato ceco il cui protagonista è Krtek, la più graziosa e furba talpa mai vissuta.

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Come lavare il Cachemire?

Oggi voglio darti alcuni consigli, che sicuramente saprai, ma è sempre bene rinfrescare la memoria, su come lavare il cachemire.

Maglie, maglioni, cardigan, vestiti, ma anche sciarpe, guanti, cappelli, insomma, tutti gli indumenti di cachemire.

Il cachemire va lavato in acqua fredda (mai in lavatrice), senza detersivo, ma con sapone per indumenti delicati, poco sapone, molto poco.

Si mette a bagno in una bacinella per due o tre ore con poco sapone.

Dopodichè si toglie dalla bacinella, si lascia scorrere da sola l’acqua in eccesso, senza strizzare, e si adagia disteso su una coperta o su un asciugamano per lasciarlo seccare.

Mai appenderlo!!! Il cachemire è una fibra talmente delicata che appendendo un capo di abbigliamento per farlo asciugare, c’è la forte possibilità che il peso dell’acqua faccia sformare il tuo capo, rendendolo deforme, lungo e stretto, senza la possibilità di fargli riprendere la sua forma originale.

Infine la stiratura. Generalmente i capi di cachemire non hanno bisogno di essere stirati, ma se proprio vuoi stirarlo, non appoggiare sulla fibra il ferro da stiro, passaci solo il vapore.
Il vapore basta da solo per togliere eventuali pieghe che sono rimaste senza danneggiare la fibra stessa.

Il ferro da stiro caldo o, peggio, troppo caldo, appoggiato sul capo di cachemire può danneggiare la fibra, che è già molto delicata.

Segui questi piccoli consigli ed il tuo capo di cachemire ti durerà in eterno sembrando sempre nuovo di zecca.

Federico Scatizzi

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Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes

Check this post Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes from another knitting blog:

Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes Bow

[A copy of this book was provided by the publisher for review].

Purchase this book from

I have long loved yarn in all its various forms, but a recent step into spinning has got me thinking more deeply about the raw material that turns into that object of desire. To learn to spin is to learn about fiber, and this book is a wonderful reference about that most wonderful fiber: wool.

The first two chapters introduce the main character and describe its transformation in yarn; however, as a new spinner, I’m most excited by Chapter Three. The third chapter provides profiles of the fiber from 37 different sheep breeds along with essential stats like fineness, staple length, and crimp, and color pictures of washed, unspun locks. What a great resource! As someone who has recently been buying fiber more often than yarn, this is information I really appreciate. Adding to overall usefulness quotient, there’s a chapter devoted to wool blends, articles on washing wool and moth control, and really too much more to list.

And, if all that information weren’t enough, there is a chapter of patterns for hats, socks, shawls, and more. There are some good, basic patterns as well as some stand-outs for me, like the Lillia Hyrna Shawl and the Tibetan Clouds Beaded Stole [designed by new Portlandite and Twisted employee, Sivia Harding].

I believe I will refer to this book often as my love of knitting morphs into an obsession with spinning.

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Still can’t find the camera…

Check this post Still can’t find the camera… from …MonkeyKnits… A Knitting Blog:

But I guess that doesn’t mean I can’t post, huh? We are officially moved in, although we still have boxes to unpack. So far we haven’t had any nasty surprises. We love the new house, and we’re settling in just fine. I’ll post photos if I ever find the camera(s).

See cshmere yarns at

In the meantime, how about a book review?


The lovely folks at the Penguin Group sent me this book to review — “Wacky Baby Knits.” The book contains “20 knitted designs for the fashion-conscious toddler.” I don’t have any photos of the contents, but you can see more and download some of the patterns online here.

The book includes a short “how-to” section for new knitters. The pictures are easy to follow, and I think it would be helpful for the brand new knitter. Then we have hats, mittens, jackets and outfits just to name a few. My favorite section is the hat section. I especially love the Mohawk hat and the Flying Helmet.

The wacky little outfits are really over the top. There’s a cow, a frog and a pirate suit (sounds like the opening line of a joke, huh?). There’s also a crazy robot suit, a biker jacket and a tutu. All of these would make super cute Halloween outfits.

All in all, it’s a super cute book with options for anyone. The Flying Helmet hat would make a great baby shower gift, while the frog outfit would make a great toddler costume. Check out this book on Amazon today!

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Plans. Best. Laid. All that

Check this post Plans. Best. Laid. All that from Yarn Harlot:

January 29, 2010

A little while ago, I put together my own sock club.  I still belong to a sock club, but I wanted to make a point of burning through some of the stash and finally getting to a few patterns I’ve been thinking about for a while.  Thing is, stuff slips off the radar.  I get the yarn or the patterns and I think I’m going to get to it soon, but really knitting is sort of slow, and by the time I’m free to start something again, whatever that cool pattern and yarn were has sort of slipped through the cracks, down past the canopy of the stash and the next thing you know I’ve forgotten I’d ever wanted to knit and and been seduced by whatever came along in the meantime.  This year I took my own advice and I made kits.

I got 12 big ziplocks, and in each one I put everything I need to make those socks.  If the pattern was in a book I photocopied it, if it was a download I printed it, if if was a pattern I had to buy, I bought it. Then I went through the stash and figured out what should go with what – then I sealed up all 12 and put them away on a shelf in my office cupboard, promising myself that I would knit one pair a month, drawn at random.  Some men’s socks, some ladies, some lace, some cable… at the end of the year I’d have 12 pairs of socks (at least) and have made a serious dent in my sock needs.

A couple of days ago I realized that I was in serious danger of blowing the system the very first month out, and so I went into the cupboard and pulled a bag at random. (The astute among you will notice that post furnace installation I got a new cupboard in my office.  It was the tradeoff for the space I lost because I gained a heating duct in that room.  Heat is nice and all, but mama’s got a lot of yarn. That’s my sock club on the top shelf. Nice, huh?)  I snagged one from the middle without looking.  I got a skein of Handkraft “The sock who loved me” in  Mangrove, which was paired with the pattern for the Sleepy Hollow socks.

No problem, I thought those will be quick to finish by the end of the month.  Now, me being me and the universe being what it is, I totally should have seen it coming the minute I thought that, but I still haven’t gotten used to the way that my knitting ability can come and go at a moments notice.

I started down the leg, all seemed well.  Then I got to the gusset increases and the next thing I knew I was knitting like a rookie, and by a rookie, I mean that I wasn’t knitting badly, I was knitting like someone who hadn’t learned some stuff about knitting the hard way about a thousand times.  See – a rookie doesn’t know that it’s really hard to go purl to purl on dpns without  having a wicked ladder (at least if you’re me.) A rookie wouldn’t know to slide that bad boy over to the other needle to avoid that crap.  A rookie might think “hey man, I know what a m1p is.  I don’t need to look at the stitch legend.”

Then a rookie would be wrong – a rookie would look at that gusset and learn his lesson, and then the rookie would knit better next time.  Me?  Not a rookie. Knew all this- knit badly anyway, and it was totally preventable.  After 36 years of knitting I’m going to go public and tell you what I think is the #1 cause of knitted crap.

Failure to read.

Seriously.  The instructions were right there, they are correct, they are clear, there is nothing wrong with them and the only thing that gave me that totally crappy gusset is that I did not read. It is my fault, and I have no-one to blame because I didn’t read.  I had a little pout and a beer, then I took my lumps, ripped it back and started again from the top of the gussets/heel and carried on. This went reasonably well until I tried it on.  Bad news.  Should have read the sizing information- that’s there too. Ripped the entire sock back, tried again.   I thought I had this beast going on until I finished the whole gusset and heel and thought that was pretty funny lookin’ too.  Didn’t look like the picture.  I carried on a bit, starting to decrease the stitches and realized I didn’t have the right number of stitches, and as I re-checked the pattern, I realized that I’d read the first line of the heel turn, recognized the techniques, assumed I knew what I was doing and carried on.
Not so much.  The heel actually departs from what I was expecting about halfway through.  Thus – the heel is wrong.  Again. Failure to read. Again. It’s going to be a stretch to finish these socks by the end of the month (considering that there is only 2 days left in the month.) I’m going to have to do one of three  things.  Knit faster,  get smarter or READ.  (That third option seems easiest.)

(PS.  Thought I’d let you know,  Sock Camp opens to the general public today, now that the club members have signed up.  Also – an aside to Tina.  What are you doing? Hoarding bad pictures of me? )

Posted by Stephanie at January 29, 2010 2:46 PM

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Characteristics of Cashmere wool

The finest Cashmere goats are animals with characteristics very different from each other.

For example, we can say that the cashmere fiber produced can be very different, depending on the age of the animal: the younger, the higher the fineness. Another aspect that varies is the color of cashmere, from cream to gray, the brown to black. All this is because up to now have not yet been made selections based on genetics.

We are just at the beginning of this type of selection, and in fact such a practice has just begun at the European farmers, U.S. and Australia. For now, the selection of the goats is made on the basis of a particular characteristic: resistance to cold down to a temperature exaggerated for humans but not for the Capra hircus: less than 30 ° C. To reach these temperatures and produce, therefore, a high-quality cashmere fiber, the animal must necessarily have a strong and resilient fleece, but above all it must have a dense undercoat and very hot: The most subtle and end that we already know, and called “duvet”.

Probably, if in the future will be conducted genetic selections or even genetic manipulation of animals that produce this precious wool, perhaps one that will already see in other fields of agriculture and livestock, which exponentially increase the productive capacity of farms, but at the same time will produce a significant reduction in both the selling price of the same quality of wool produced. For now however, must benefit from the current standard of quality cashmere.

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