Hircus Filati and Cashmere yarn

Cashmere is among the most precious and rare textile fibers, and it has extraordinary properties. It comes exclusively from the Hyrcus goat, that lives on the Asian mountains, and it’s now localized in the northern China, in Mongolia, Iran and Afghanistan.

The Hyrcus goat, in order to survive in very difficult climate conditions such us very cold winters and very hot summers, has developed a sub-level of its external fleece, called “Duvet”.

Cashmere is considered one of the best natural fibers because of its characteristic softness, warmth and fineness. The yarn is obtained by coming the Tibetan Goats solely in winter to separate the long coarse hairs from the finer, soft ones. The resulting quantity of cashmere is quite small: 120 grams (6 goats are needed to make a jumper), that’s the reason why the price is so high.

Every item and color of pure Cashmere yarn is processed individually, using textile machinery specialized in knitting and weaving of yarns. Processing is very long and complicated, as it is done by spinning extremely specialized in processing of fine fibers.

For many years Hircus Filati has been offering clients the opportunity to purchase fine 100% Italian cashmere yarn online at heavily discounted prices because all products of goods in large stocks.

We use a very light process of hand washing for all our yarn. It is gentle enough to take off the residual industrial oil which remains on the yarn for spinning but light enough to preserve the cashmere fibers.


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For Shops, Knitwear, Knitter, etc.

If you have a yarn store or a shop, if you're a knitter or an embroidery or a pack, if you're a knitter and you have a VAT number, download free color cards and the wholesale price list of our Fall / Winter 2012 -2013, you'll find a lot of interesting news.

Pure cashmere yarn produced by the best Italian specialized spinning at great prices.

Natural yarns dyed with plant pigments, natural 100%, who not have undergone any type of chemical treatment..

Yarn in:

– Baby Yak
– Baby camel
– Baby Alpaca
– Mohair and Superkid Mohair
– Merino
– Silk

and cashmere yarns in pure and mixed recycled environmentally friendly.

Yarn machine, gauges from 3 to 12, and yarn for knitting (crochet, knitting, embroidery, etc..) In all the above items.

Click on this link and fill out the form with your data, you will receive an email with simple instructions to download the color chart and price list:

and select language "English"

and while you're there, take a look at our website.


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From Wikipedia

Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufactured sewing threads may be finished with wax or other lubricants to withstand the stresses involved in sewing.[1] Embroidery threads are yarns specifically designed for hand or machine embroidery.


Main article: Spinning (textiles)
A Spinning Jenny, spinning machine which initiated the Industrial Revolution

Spun yarn is made by twisting or otherwise bonding staple fibers together to make a cohesive thread.Twisting fibers into yarn in the process called spinning can be dated back to the Upper Paleolithic, and yarn spinning was one of the very first processes to be industrialized. Spun yarns may contain a single type of fiber, or be a blend of various types. Combining synthetic fibers (which can have high strength, lustre, and fire retardant qualities) with natural fibers (which have good water absorbency and skin comforting qualities) is very common. The most widely used blends are cotton-polyester and wool-acrylic fiber blends. Blends of different natural fibers are common too, especially with more expensive fibers such as angora and cashmere.

Yarns are made up of a number of plies, each ply being a single spun yarn. These single plies of yarn are twisted together (plied) in the opposite direction to make a thicker yarn. Depending on the direction of this final twist, the yarn will be known as s-twist or z-twist. For a single ply, the direction of the final twist is the same as its original twist.

Filament yarn consists of filament fibers (very long continuous fibers) either twisted together or only grouped together. Thicker monofilaments are typically used for industrial purposes rather than fabric production or decoration. Silk is a natural filament, and synthetic filament yarns are used to produce silk-like effects.

Texturized yarns are made by a process of air texturizing (sometimes referred to as taslanizing), which combines multiple filament yarns into a yarn with some of the characteristics of spun yarns.

Craft yarns
Cat with a ball of mixed-color yarn.
Spool of all purpose sewing thread, closeup shows texture of 2-ply Z-twist mercerized cotton with polyester core.
Yarn drying after being dyed in the early American tradition, at Conner Prairie living history museum.

Yarn quantities are usually measured by weight in ounces or grams. In the United States, Canada and Europe, balls of yarn for handcrafts are sold by weight. Common sizes include 25g, 50g, and 100g skeins. Some companies also primarily measure in ounces with common sizes being three-ounce, four-ounce, six-ounce, and eight-ounce skeins. These measurements are taken at a standard temperature and humidity, because yarn can absorb moisture from the air. The actual length of the yarn contained in a ball or skein can vary due to the inherent heaviness of the fiber and the thickness of the strand; for instance, a 50 g skein of lace weight mohair may contain several hundred meters, while a 50 g skein of bulky wool may contain only 60 meters.

There are several thicknesses of yarn, also referred to as weight. This is not to be confused with the measurement of weight listed above. The Craft Yarn Council of America is making an effort to promote a standardized industry system for measuring this, numbering the weights from 1 (finest) to 6 (heaviest)[4]. Some of the names for the various weights of yarn from finest to thickest are called lace, fingering, sock, sport, double-knit (or DK), worsted, aran, bulky, and super-bulky. This naming convention is more descriptive than precise; fiber artists disagree about where on the continuum each lies, and the precise relationships between the sizes.

A more precise measurement of yarn weight, often used by weavers, is wraps per inch (wpi). The yarn is wrapped snugly around a ruler and the number of wraps that fit in an inch are counted.

Labels on yarn for handcrafts often include information on gauge, known in the UK as tension, which is a measurement of how many stitches and rows are produced per inch or per centimeter on a specified size of knitting needle or crochet hook. The proposed standardization uses a four-by-four inch/ten-by-ten centimeter knitted or crocheted square, with the resultant number of stitches across and rows high made by the suggested tools on the label to determine the gauge.

In Europe textile engineers often use the unit tex, which is the weight in grams of a kilometer of yarn, or decitex, which is a finer measurement corresponding to the weight in grams of 10 kilometers of yarn. Many other units have been used over time by different industries.


Yarn may be used undyed, or may be colored with natural or artificial dyes. Most yarns have a single uniform hue, but there is also a wide selection of variegated yarns:

* heathered or tweed: yarn with flecks of different colored fiber
* ombre: variegated yarn with light and dark shades of a single hue
* multi-colored: variegated yarn with two or more distinct hues (a “parrot colorway” might have green, yellow and red)
* self-striping: yarn dyed with lengths of color that will automatically create stripes in a knitted or crocheted object
* marled: yarn made from strands of different-colored yarn twisted together, sometimes in closely-related hues


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Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes

Check this post Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes from another knitting blog:

Book Review: The Knitter’s Book of Wool by Clara Parkes Bow

[A copy of this book was provided by the publisher for review].

Purchase this book from Amazon.com

I have long loved yarn in all its various forms, but a recent step into spinning has got me thinking more deeply about the raw material that turns into that object of desire. To learn to spin is to learn about fiber, and this book is a wonderful reference about that most wonderful fiber: wool.

The first two chapters introduce the main character and describe its transformation in yarn; however, as a new spinner, I’m most excited by Chapter Three. The third chapter provides profiles of the fiber from 37 different sheep breeds along with essential stats like fineness, staple length, and crimp, and color pictures of washed, unspun locks. What a great resource! As someone who has recently been buying fiber more often than yarn, this is information I really appreciate. Adding to overall usefulness quotient, there’s a chapter devoted to wool blends, articles on washing wool and moth control, and really too much more to list.

And, if all that information weren’t enough, there is a chapter of patterns for hats, socks, shawls, and more. There are some good, basic patterns as well as some stand-outs for me, like the Lillia Hyrna Shawl and the Tibetan Clouds Beaded Stole [designed by new Portlandite and Twisted employee, Sivia Harding].

I believe I will refer to this book often as my love of knitting morphs into an obsession with spinning.



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Il cuscino della nonna

II gusto un poco fané del piccolo punto ritorna in questo cuscino, nel motivo classico a mazzo di fiori.

Un canovaccio preparato, corredato dal filato in lana o cotone lanato necessario per eseguire il lavoro.
Velluto di cotone: due metri in tinta rosso rubino.
Fodera o teletta; lana o altro materiale per imbottitura.

Punti impiegati
Mezzo punto croce oppure piccolo punto.

Il canovaccio preparato facilita molto il lavoro di ricamo.
Sul fondo sono dipinti a colori i vari motivi; non è quindi necessario contare i fili per eseguire il ricamo: basta cambiare colore via via che ci si sposta lungo il motivo. In alcuni casi, qualora si desideri eseguire il lavoro a mezzo punto croce, sul canovaccio è già teso anche il filo per l’imbottitura; anche questo filo è colorato secondo lo schema di lavorazione. Il mezzo punto croce, essendo più imbottito, da più rilievo al motivo ricamato ed è di esecuzione più veloce; il piccolo punto crea invece un effetto-tessuto particolarmente prezioso. Stendete poi il ricamo sul tavolo e misurate il diametro del motivo ricamato calcolato in base ai due punti opposti più distanti; ritagliate un disco di carta delle stesse dimensioni, che vi serva come cartamodello del cuscino.
Usando questo cartamodello segnate con un’imbastitura la circonferenza sul canovaccio, avendo cura che la parte ricamata sia tutta inclusa nel cerchio; con Io stesso cartamodello ritagliate un disco di velluto, che serve per il sotto del cuscino, segnando anche qui la circonferenza con una imbastitura. Sovrapponete dal rovescio alle due parti la teletta o la fodera e fissatela con punti nascosti.
Preparate ora il bordo, ritagliando nel velluto una striscia, eventualmente giuntata, lunga tre volte la misura della circonferenza, calcolata lungo l’imbastitura. La striscia deve essere alta circa cm 30 orli compresi.


Ripiegate cm 2 e mezzo lungo i margini della lunghezza, passate un filo ed arricciate fino ad ottenere una fascia della stessa lunghezza della circonferenza, più qualche centimetro per l’orlo di chiusura. Preparate lo sbieco cordonato (che può anche essere sostituito da un cordone da tappezziere). Ritagliate nello sbieco del tessuto una fascia alta circa cm 5 e lunga quanto la circonferenza; ripiegatela in due su un cordone da tappezziere piuttosto morbido e fissatela dal dritto con una fitta impuntura che scorra proprio alla base del cordone, fissandolo all’interno del tessuto ripiegato. Unite fra loro le varie parti. Ritagliate il tessuto eccedente dalla parte superiore e dalla parte inferiore, tagliando contemporaneamente anche la teletta di rinforzo; lasciate un buon margine per la cucitura. Unite prima il fondo al bordo. Dovete imbastire insieme dritto contro dritto il fondo (lungo la circonferenza) e il bordo arricciato, frapponendo tra l’uno e l’altro lo sbiechino con il cordone, in modo che la parte cordonata fuoriesca dalla cucitura. Rovesciate il lavoro, poi applicate il bordo al canovaccio, dal dritto questa volta, frapponendo un secondo sbieco cordonato.
Per ultimo riempite il cuscino con lana o altro materiale e chiudete il bordo lungo la apertura nascondendo la cucitura tra le arricciature.


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Still can’t find the camera…

Check this post Still can’t find the camera… from …MonkeyKnits… A Knitting Blog:

But I guess that doesn’t mean I can’t post, huh? We are officially moved in, although we still have boxes to unpack. So far we haven’t had any nasty surprises. We love the new house, and we’re settling in just fine. I’ll post photos if I ever find the camera(s).

See cshmere yarns at www.compagniadelcashmere.com

In the meantime, how about a book review?


The lovely folks at the Penguin Group sent me this book to review — “Wacky Baby Knits.” The book contains “20 knitted designs for the fashion-conscious toddler.” I don’t have any photos of the contents, but you can see more and download some of the patterns online here.

The book includes a short “how-to” section for new knitters. The pictures are easy to follow, and I think it would be helpful for the brand new knitter. Then we have hats, mittens, jackets and outfits just to name a few. My favorite section is the hat section. I especially love the Mohawk hat and the Flying Helmet.

The wacky little outfits are really over the top. There’s a cow, a frog and a pirate suit (sounds like the opening line of a joke, huh?). There’s also a crazy robot suit, a biker jacket and a tutu. All of these would make super cute Halloween outfits.

All in all, it’s a super cute book with options for anyone. The Flying Helmet hat would make a great baby shower gift, while the frog outfit would make a great toddler costume. Check out this book on Amazon today!


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